AA: Byron Bay

 

The past couple days have been great. Fine weather finally, sunny and +25-30ish every day and enough breeze to make the waves crash.

The rest of my Coffs Harbour time was pretty relaxing. Not long after posting the last update I took a walk out to the Muttonbird Island Nature preserve at the end of the harbour. Looking back at town gave a fantastic view of the bay and the buildings rising up on the hills then you could cross to the other side and look out into the open pacific and at the waves crashing below. Colour aside the Pacific just has an epic feel to it that the Atlantic can’t match. On the way back to town I stopped by the aforementioned fisherman’s coop to get some tasty fish and chips. Absolutely delicious but the seagulls were beginning to swarm around my park bench to Birdemic levels by the time I was done. I ended up walking along the coast to the south for a while afterwards, but after a while I was simply jonesing for a swim.

After walking back to the hostel and changing I headed down to the Jetty beach and walked out onto the jetty. It was close to low tide so the thing was more or less at its highest as I walked out to where everyone was splashing down. Pleasantly enough there’s actually stairs up from the water at that point so one doesn’t have to swim all the way to shore (probably 200m or so) in between jumps. I ended up jumping a few times, but it was quickly getting close to sunset and I wanted to hang out in the waves a bit before heading back. The water was lovely and warm (despite some aussies whimpering about how cold it was) but the waves were fairly gentle since it was such a protected beach.

That night I decided to treat myself to dinner out since I was pretty wiped from all the walking and swimming and found a decent thai place not far up from the hostel. Afterwards I was going to go for a beer at the same hotel as the trivia but there was a cover in place because it was apparently topless waitress night so instead I grabbed a bottle of wine from the bottleshop and headed back to the hostel. I ended up sitting around the pool for a while in between doing a load of laundry. By the time I went to bed at around midnight there was still no one else in my room so I celebrated some privacy for once… I must have been tired, because when I woke the next morning there was a guy in the other bottom bunk and enough unpacked that he must have had the light on and been making lots of noise. It must have been late though as he hadn’t so much as stirred by the time I left the next morning.

Annoyingly the bus out to Byron the next day wasn’t leaving until five or so. I had to throw my luggage in day storage and pay a day fee, but I made up for it by walking up to the creek that cuts the town in half and walking up it a ways to the Botanical Gardens. Afterwards I walked down to the surfing beach and then across the creek and through the waves back to the harbour wall. For whatever reason there are few things I enjoy more than wading around where a river/stream meets the sea. Something about the rapidly changing currents trying to knock you over and the swirling different colours is just a blast. The beach on the other side of the creek is known for strong riptides and waves that crash right onto rocks on one side so it isn’t meant for swimming. It is however without question the most beautiful off leash dog park I’ve ever seen and I was visited by a number of very cute (and mostly very wet) pups as they flew around enjoying the sand.

The bus to Byron ended up having a few of the same people I’d ridden into Coffs with (a few of which I hadn’t seen at all since checking in) though we all do seem to be taking fairly different paths after Byron. One of the girls was a German named Sabina who was interested in learning to surf and is (at least initially) intending on spending two weeks in Byron Bay. (Side note: I have met and become friendly with 9 German girls on this trip so far. All but one has been named either Sabina or Andrea…) We ended up chatting a bit since she wanted someone to split a chip combo with her at the meal stop. She’s actually been here since September but worked the first 3 months, we’d done a fair number of the same New Zealand things so we gave an English bloke a few tips before he heads off there from Brisbane in two weeks.

The meal stop was a story in itself as we pulled into a petrol station/terrible lunch counter combo. We passed a fast food plaza at the top of the hill 2 minutes after getting back on the bus and no one who had ordered from the gas station was too impressed. Sabina and I had done the two bags of chips for four bucks combo as I anticipated the food would be pretty terrible which was quickly confirmed. Bad food aside, the real adventure of the meal stop was the hippie Christian commune that seemed to be located next door. The moment we started emerging from the bus someone ran down from the weather beaten old mansion next door and turned on a spotlight, some twinkling lights and some blaring Christian country/rock. The spotlight lit up their “Jesus is the lord of our nation” placard and the music was the sort of thing you’d expect to hear driving through Alabama. They had a little hut of sorts on the edge of the road that I think they offered people coffee from during the day. The best was yet to come though as soon after we emerged from the petrol station a guy resembling a fat hippie jesus and wearing what seemed to be white cotton pyjamas exited the house and began dancing and swaying down to the music. Occasionally a whiff of pot drifted our way as well which wasn’t exactly a surprise given the atmosphere. Hilarious though. Hippie Jesus waved goodbye as we pulled back onto the highway.

At first glance Byron Bay didn’t really seem like my type of place, lots of 18 year old looking clubs, tons of drunks wandering the streets and very much the vibe of a place that I’m getting way too old for (and never enjoyed in the first place.) Unfortunately the hostel reinforced this, incredibly loud, five of us (and three surf boards) packed into a room that by all rights should have one double bed. It was not the most pleasant night and I was really wishing I’d booked a motel here (however it’s both expensive and usually packed here, sadly no RCI either.) Poor Sabina is in a ten share which I can’t even imagine, she said it’s basically one and a half motel rooms stuffed with bunk beds and no storage space. No storage space to start with AND a second German luggage invasion. The only thing it had going for it as we checked in was that they’d given us a shuttle ride from the bus stop. All that being said, the rest of the town made up for it come morning. The hostel is close to the beach and has free boogie boards. (Ugh, I actually just discovered that this hostel doesn’t actually provide dishes, you have to rent a dish set… seriously YHA, I thought you had standards, this place sucks)

I actually started off my day with a hike up to the lighthouse and the more easterly point in mainland Australia (I guess Lord Howe Island is probably the easternmost point?) This was a beautiful hike through a few of the remaining pockets of rainforest on Cape Byron. In a somewhat scary reminder to stay on the trails, after stopping to tie my shoe about 20 feet into the trail, I looked in the forest to see a two meter spider web and a spider with a leg span the size of my fist. She didn’t seem to be a venomous type thankfully. They weren’t kidding when they said steep about the trail either and the high temps and humidity made me thankful I’d brought a bunch of water. Here and there I caught sight of Tallow Beach to the south (a more dangerous beach open to the ocean that’s less used.) Eventually the lighthouse itself came into sight towering above the tallest point on the cape but it took another few minutes to get there. From the lighthouse you can apparently often see whales at the right time of year (sadly not now) but I did  see some dolphins riding waves as well as some sea turtles feeding in some of the backwater pools. Pleasantly enough there was also a tiny cafe in one of the assistant keeper cottages so I was able to snag a Bundaberg Peachee soda and just watch the waves crash for a while.

Continuing the loop meant a bunch of stairs going down and a variety of lookouts along the way. I saw a few more turtles as I wound my way down the path, taking a few pictures and videos along the way. The tip of the cape was one of the most gorgeous spots. Every few seconds spray would shoot into the air as a wave crashed into the narrow rock barrier. Beyond it a couple very brave surfers set out to catch a wave that would carry them all the way back into the main bay. The rest of the loop back passed a series of gorgeous beaches and exclusive looking private homes and vacation rentals. By the time I reached the hostel again I needed a rest so I hopped into a deck chair by the pool (the only nice part of the hostel) and enjoyed the shade for a bit.

My short walk had turned into more of a trek than expected so by the time I was ready to go down to the beach it was already reasonably late. I couldn’t resist free boogie boards so I ended up riding waves until just before sunset. The nice thing about this beach is that the only real rip is a horizontal current trying to pull you away from your towel. The water itself is such a crystal clear green that you can look down between waves and see the occasional fish dart by your legs. Then if you’re me you get engrossed by a school of something blue and pretty and get a 12 foot wave in the face that whips your boogie board around into your skull! Fun times! I actually ran into Sabina down there again boogie boarding as well, she’d been heading out as I left for the lighthouse, but she’d apparently gone back for lunch in between. The waves were running really well for our boards and I was in there for hours, just thinking about packing it in when an absolute monster wave came in. Hopping up into it I got an amazing ride but also incredible pain… My poor legs, exhausted from the up and down then current fighting for hours had decided this big jump was enough and my left calf and right hamstring muscle locked. I had to sit there getting smacked by subsequent foam surges pressing on the muscles to get them to bend again. I did take the signal though and went to sit on the beach and watch the sun set over the mountains.

Tonight I’m going to try to find a decent pub and have a drink or two, I might even brave one of the other clubs, anything to delay coming back to this flophouse.

Antipodean Adventure: Port Mac and Coffs Harbour

Rain, rain again… it seems as if I’m now paying for my awesome New Zealand weather with a ton of rain up the eastern coast here. As if to rub it in, pretty much every restroom or shower block you enter has posters imploring you to save water because of drought conditions in New South Wales. It could be worse though, apparently a few weeks ago Port Mac went through a solid two weeks of unbroken rainstorms. Still, it put the kibosh on my plans for today including the sunset fish and chips cruise and most of my time on the beach. I thought about staying an extra night and trying again, but I think I’ve used up the rainy day activities for the town and I don’t feel like blowing through all of my computer’s video just yet. Tomorrow I’ll head to Coffs Harbour and just sail another day.

Sadly I got another snorer last night but managed to get to sleep relatively quickly anyway, he wasn’t in the same league as the previous dude. Still, come morning when I heard the rain pouring down and saw him packing up to leave I gladly burrowed back under my sheets and slept in to the luxurious hour of 10AM. I then spent most of the day walking around the town, and checking out the shorefront walk in between rain squalls, but as the weather moved back in I beat it back to the hostel. It sadly turned into a 4 hour rainstorm that made for a cooped up afternoon catching up on email while people watched what seemed to be an endless marathon of Malcolm in the Middle on the tv. My hopes of maybe getting the room to myself were getting quite high until about 7 when I saw three very loud swiss dudes enter my room. Oh well, if the RCI thing doesn’t shake out I’ll probably spring for a real hotel sometime next week just to have a chance to have a real shower and a soft mattress.

Despite the weather disappointment the time here has been quite entertaining on the nature front. The area is well known for “urban” koalas and sure enough I spotted one hiding from the rain while walking today. Unfortunately the area he was cuddled up in was too dark for a picture but it was still great to see a wild one. Less pleasant was my first encounter with a golden orb spider. These things can grow up to the size of a child’s head. The one I saw wasn’t that big, but still had a body that was probably an inch and a half long and a significant span including its legs. They aren’t one of the scary ultra venomous ones, but it was a reminder that I’m slowly making my way up to the tropical areas where paying attention to that sort of thing becomes (in the words of one of the hostel guys) “an important consideration.” Lastly, as I walked down for some non-nautically served fish and chips tonight I heard an irritated flapping of wings as I passed a bush. I figured it was a magpie or cockatoo upset with me, but an instantly later two big black forms burst from the bush and flew right into the light. Again it was something I’d seen at the nature reserve, but this time it was two flying foxes (basically a huge bat.) The did two swirls then swooped by about a foot from me to go back into the bush as I stood there mouth agape.

Port Macquarie itself is pretty but quite small. Apparently the surfing is pretty good which is one of the draws for younger people, but it hasn’t been great while I’ve been here. The rest of the town appears to be one of those resort towns that has seen better times. It reminds me a lot of some of the lakeside retreats that used to be a popular family and old folks destination until airfare became affordable and allowed people to go further afield for a weeklong trip. There are more than a few buildings that are obviously old family motels converted to cheap apartments for seasonal backpacker workers for the fruit picking and other activities around here. The street where the hostel sits has a few of these and some very beach house looking properties covered with ramshackle additions that are clearly multishare housing as well, though on a more permanent basis than the hostels. Overall the YHA here has been good, but had I known it was going to rain constantly I would have checked into the more expensive one which was farther from the beach but had cheaper internet.

I’m still a bit worried about what I’m going to do for the next bit, sometime in the next few days I need to work out what area I’ll be in for the ANZAC day national holiday and book something (depending on where I am that might be hotel night as it might be take whatever you can get.) Hopefully while I’m at Coffs Harbour I can get a handle on just how much I want to do in the Gold Coast/Brisbane region  before I head up to the tropics. Part of me feels like I have ages left to plan for but I need to remember that the diving course and sailing trips I’m planning will take up a week or more by themselves.

No more internet tonight so I’ll just add on tomorrow’s notes then post a combined trip report tomorrow.

Finally some nice weather in Port Mac as I’m leaving, but I’d been reassured by someone travelling south that Coffs Harbour was essentially the same sort of town so I wasn’t missing much. My greyhound actually didn’t leave until the afternoon anyway so I got up and did a nice bit of beach walking and had a swim. As a result (and because this section of the pacific highway is basically a band of eucalyptus with a road through it) I had a nice nap on the bus until we got close to Coffs Harbour.

Coffs Harbour itself is an annoying to navigate town with the main clusters of things at the extreme points of a triangle around a creek inlet. My hostel here is right down by the water and is actually a nearly brand new purpose built building, quite nice, though it continues the stupid YHA tradition of only having 2 wall plugs for a 4 person room (both miles from the beds.) It was close to dinnertime when I checked in and the reception guy (and the dude running the shuttle van) recommended heading to a nearby pub for trivia night and 2 for 1 pizza, I didn’t take much convincing. My new roomie tagged along too and in the lobby I met up with a few Canadians, including a guy from Boissevain of all places.

The pub itself was a typical aussie village pub/hotel but the pizza was surprisingly great and the beer was cheap. Our team won a couple of spot prizes as well as the backpacker challenge (we beat the other two backpacker teams) and managed to get two free bottles of semi-terrible but drinkable wine and a godawful six pack of light beer. It actually would have been 3 bottles of wine but for the American at the table who invited a local friend to join us, her very drunk (VERY) friend felt the need to shout out our answer before it was our turn… She then proceeded to steal my wine and spill it on me, eat my roommate Craig’s leftover pizza, first pulling off toppings then randomly rubbing them on my face and the american’s mouth telling us to “EAT EAT EAT.” To make her even more appealing she felt free to punch anyone within reach very hard and without warning. I have a nice bruise on my chest this morning. Bizarrely enough though the pub closed down by 10:30 and in fact everything close to our hostel was closed by then, so Craig and I headed back to the hostel, snuck in our six pack (no drinking after ten) and watched the 5 channel tv until about one. Overall a weird night, but cheap drinking as I think I only paid for two beers all night but drank most of a bottle of wine and a few of the gross beers. As most of you know I’m not much of a beer drinker normally, but most of the time over here a shot of anything will cost you significantly more than even the better beers.

 Today the plan is to head down to the beach, do a walk out to a nature preserve at the other end of the marina then have a swim. I’m told jumping off the big jetty is a blast, especially at low tide. On the food front there’s a fisherman’s coop at the marina that does fresh caught fish and chips (fush and chups David!) at a bargain price. There’s also some rafting around here apparently for full day trips but I need to pick up my pace up the coast so I think I’ll move on to Byron Bay tomorrow instead.

I’m told email may be bouncing back from my tristanhartry.com account, if that’s the case for you try my thartry sh 

Rain, rain again… it seems as if I’m now paying for my awesome New Zealand weather with a ton of rain up the eastern coast here. As if to rub it in, pretty much every restroom or shower block you enter has posters imploring you to save water because of drought conditions in New South Wales. It could be worse though, apparently a few weeks ago Port Mac went through a solid two weeks of unbroken rainstorms. Still, it put the kibosh on my plans for today including the sunset fish and chips cruise and most of my time on the beach. I thought about staying an extra night and trying again, but I think I’ve used up the rainy day activities for the town and I don’t feel like blowing through all of my computer’s video just yet. Tomorrow I’ll head to Coffs Harbour and just sail another day.

Sadly I got another snorer last night but managed to get to sleep relatively quickly anyway, he wasn’t in the same league as the previous dude. Still, come morning when I heard the rain pouring down and saw him packing up to leave I gladly burrowed back under my sheets and slept in to the luxurious hour of 10AM. I then spent most of the day walking around the town, and checking out the shorefront walk in between rain squalls, but as the weather moved back in I beat it back to the hostel. It sadly turned into a 4 hour rainstorm that made for a cooped up afternoon catching up on email while people watched what seemed to be an endless marathon of Malcolm in the Middle on the tv. My hopes of maybe getting the room to myself were getting quite high until about 7 when I saw three very loud swiss dudes enter my room. Oh well, if the RCI thing doesn’t shake out I’ll probably spring for a real hotel sometime next week just to have a chance to have a real shower and a soft mattress.

Despite the weather disappointment the time here has been quite entertaining on the nature front. The area is well known for “urban” koalas and sure enough I spotted one hiding from the rain while walking today. Unfortunately the area he was cuddled up in was too dark for a picture but it was still great to see a wild one. Less pleasant was my first encounter with a golden orb spider. These things can grow up to the size of a child’s head. The one I saw wasn’t that big, but still had a body that was probably an inch and a half long and a significant span including its legs. They aren’t one of the scary ultra venomous ones, but it was a reminder that I’m slowly making my way up to the tropical areas where paying attention to that sort of thing becomes (in the words of one of the hostel guys) “an important consideration.” Lastly, as I walked down for some non-nautically served fish and chips tonight I heard an irritated flapping of wings as I passed a bush. I figured it was a magpie or cockatoo upset with me, but an instantly later two big black forms burst from the bush and flew right into the light. Again it was something I’d seen at the nature reserve, but this time it was two flying foxes (basically a huge bat.) The did two swirls then swooped by about a foot from me to go back into the bush as I stood there mouth agape.

Port Macquarie itself is pretty but quite small. Apparently the surfing is pretty good which is one of the draws for younger people, but it hasn’t been great while I’ve been here. The rest of the town appears to be one of those resort towns that has seen better times. It reminds me a lot of some of the lakeside retreats that used to be a popular family and old folks destination until airfare became affordable and allowed people to go further afield for a weeklong trip. There are more than a few buildings that are obviously old family motels converted to cheap apartments for seasonal backpacker workers for the fruit picking and other activities around here. The street where the hostel sits has a few of these and some very beach house looking properties covered with ramshackle additions that are clearly multishare housing as well, though on a more permanent basis than the hostels. Overall the YHA here has been good, but had I known it was going to rain constantly I would have checked into the more expensive one which was farther from the beach but had cheaper internet.

I’m still a bit worried about what I’m going to do for the next bit, sometime in the next few days I need to work out what area I’ll be in for the ANZAC day national holiday and book something (depending on where I am that might be hotel night as it might be take whatever you can get.) Hopefully while I’m at Coffs Harbour I can get a handle on just how much I want to do in the Gold Coast/Brisbane region  before I head up to the tropics. Part of me feels like I have ages left to plan for but I need to remember that the diving course and sailing trips I’m planning will take up a week or more by themselves.

No more internet tonight so I’ll just add on tomorrow’s notes then post a combined trip report tomorrow.

Finally some nice weather in Port Mac as I’m leaving, but I’d been reassured by someone travelling south that Coffs Harbour was essentially the same sort of town so I wasn’t missing much. My greyhound actually didn’t leave until the afternoon anyway so I got up and did a nice bit of beach walking and had a swim. As a result (and because this section of the pacific highway is basically a band of eucalyptus with a road through it) I had a nice nap on the bus until we got close to Coffs Harbour.

Coffs Harbour itself is an annoying to navigate town with the main clusters of things at the extreme points of a triangle around a creek inlet. My hostel here is right down by the water and is actually a nearly brand new purpose built building, quite nice, though it continues the stupid YHA tradition of only having 2 wall plugs for a 4 person room (both miles from the beds.) It was close to dinnertime when I checked in and the reception guy (and the dude running the shuttle van) recommended heading to a nearby pub for trivia night and 2 for 1 pizza, I didn’t take much convincing. My new roomie tagged along too and in the lobby I met up with a few Canadians, including a guy from Boissevain of all places.

The pub itself was a typical aussie village pub/hotel but the pizza was surprisingly great and the beer was cheap. Our team won a couple of spot prizes as well as the backpacker challenge (we beat the other two backpacker teams) and managed to get two free bottles of semi-terrible but drinkable wine and a godawful six pack of light beer. It actually would have been 3 bottles of wine but for the American at the table who invited a local friend to join us, her very drunk (VERY) friend felt the need to shout out our answer before it was our turn… She then proceeded to steal my wine and spill it on me, eat my roommate Craig’s leftover pizza, first pulling off toppings then randomly rubbing them on my face and the american’s mouth telling us to “EAT EAT EAT.” To make her even more appealing she felt free to punch anyone within reach very hard and without warning. I have a nice bruise on my chest this morning. Bizarrely enough though the pub closed down by 10:30 and in fact everything close to our hostel was closed by then, so Craig and I headed back to the hostel, snuck in our six pack (no drinking after ten) and watched the 5 channel tv until about one. Overall a weird night, but cheap drinking as I think I only paid for two beers all night but drank most of a bottle of wine and a few of the gross beers. As most of you know I’m not much of a beer drinker normally, but most of the time over here a shot of anything will cost you significantly more than even the better beers.

 Today the plan is to head down to the beach, do a walk out to a nature preserve at the other end of the marina then have a swim. I’m told jumping off the big jetty is a blast, especially at low tide. On the food front there’s a fisherman’s coop at the marina that does fresh caught fish and chips (fush and chups David!) at a bargain price. There’s also some rafting around here apparently for full day trips but I need to pick up my pace up the coast so I think I’ll move on to Byron Bay tomorrow instead.

I’m told email may be bouncing back from my tristanhartry.com account, I’m in the process of fixing it.

AA: Central Coast continued…

I guess I was lucky until now. I haven’t run into a serious snorer, just the usual gentle ones. I know I can’t talk, between asthma and allergies sometimes I’m honking, but I know I’ve never been as bad as this guy, because I can’t sleep through that level of noise. This guy was an absolutely epic snorer, imagine your ipod set to about 90% volume coming through your earbuds and that’s the volume this guy had from the bed above me. Of course it wasn’t even a nice rhythmic pattern either, instead the poor guy just got louder and louder until he made a choking sound and reset. I hope he’s seen a doctor. Eventually the French guy in the bed opposite gave up and went out to the common area with his duvet. It was probably about 4AM before I finally drifted off from exhaustion during one of his rare quiet spells.

My second full day in Newcastle meant it was time for a full day wine tour. There were five of us total from the YHA boarding the bus at the start, but after a few stops we had a full-ish bus headed up into the Hunter Valley region. They weren’t kidding when they said full day tour as we left at 9 and didn’t return until 6:30.

The Hunter Valley region produces some really flavourful Shiraz (and Aussie Shiraz is my favourite) so I was really looking forward to trying some of the local products. I was less familiar with the white varietals that most places really seemed to like, but was pleasantly surprised. My only complaint is that all the wineries we visited were smaller places that don’t export to Canada (or even sell in stores period) so I won’t be tasting any of them again anytime soon.  We did pass Lindemans so I’ve seen the vines that my favourite Shiraz comes from even if I didn’t get to taste some of the good stuff.

Taking the wine bus was definitely the right move as we ended up getting special group tasting menus at most of the places that provided more than the usual couple tastes. One particularly good place even sent us off with 8 different wines and ports provided, a few of the girls on the bus were more than a bit tipsy after that one. Overall my favourite was probably the first place we visited, a vineyard called Oakvale where, once she found out I was the big Shiraz fan on the bus, the hostess poured me large samples of their older vintages. I can see why she didn’t give them to everyone. For one they’re expensive. Mostly though, they’re very spicy flavourful bottles that most of the people on my bus would have discarded after a sip.

I seemed to get stuck on a bus full of sweet white fans. I don’t pretend to be a wine expert, but when your favourite wine on the tour was a mega-oaked chardonnay I don’t want to see them waste good stuff on you. The stuff smelled foul and even after forcing myself to take a sip I couldn’t see why they put a label on it. The only thing worse on the tour was something called Dragon’s Breath from a winery that also makes liqueurs. It was as you might expect a chilli pepper infusion, but it was chilis infused into butterscotch schnapps. Incredibly foul, syrupy sweet then a chilli aftertaste that absolutely abused the palette. It was a good thing we were hitting the lunch stop next. One of the other nice things about the wineries is that most of them gave us a sample of a port or desert wine. Some of these were kind of afterthoughts, but two of the producers actually took serious pride (and financial interest) in producing a top quality one. I got to try a fantastically mellow tawny and a 35 year old muscat that just made you melt into your shoes.

Two of the other stops on the tour were nice as well. A stop at a chocolatier was pretty nice, but they really only gave us a plate of their mass market stuff. It would have been nice to sample a piece or two of their high end truffles. The better non-wine stop was at the smelly cheese shop where they plied us with goat’s cheese, flavoured fetas and yoghurt cheeses and a fantastic fromage frais/gorgonzola spread that blew my mind. Unfortunately since the next day was a travel day I wasn’t too keen on having to eat it all that night and I didn’t buy any. I’m still regretting it.

Between the lack of sleep the previous night and the rather exuberant number of samples poured I was actually quite feeling the wine by the time the tour ended. I had to be up reasonably early to catch the bus out of town a little after 9AM as well, so I polished off some leftovers and curled up to watch a movie with some of the other people. Thankfully the bedroom was quieter that night.

The next morning I was woken up by our very own grandpa joe at roughly ten to six as he puttered around the room muttering to himself and occasionally swearing. Yesterday’s comments were on the nose as I really don’t know if this fellow should be doing this kind of trip. One of the staff told me that when doing his laundry the day before he’d put all his clothes in a dryer with some soap and done a full cycle before coming to complain that the “machine wasn’t working.” Talking to one of the women from the wine trip at the bus stop later she’d noticed him as well and apparently at breakfast he’d asked her what time it was, and when she replied 8 he asked, “in the morning?” When she asked what he’d done so far he again said he’d really only left the hostel to get a bottle of milk the day before. It really seems like he should have just picked one destination he liked and spent his money for a nice couple weeks there in a hotel rather than spending all the money touring the hostels of Australia and nothing else.

This morning I hopped the bus to Port Macquarie which turned out to be a nice little seaside town and a relaxed little hostel. I’m booked on a sunset fish and chips cruise tomorrow night which should be fantastic as it’s apparently run on an authentic Chinese junk. I suspect tomorrow will just be a lazy beach day if the weather holds since I haven’t gotten to do that in a while. Easter holidays have begun for a lot of kids here so the next two weeks may be a bit more expensive or difficult to get around. I probably should have booked more in advance as a result, but I’ve really enjoyed only booking 2 days ahead or so so far as I decided what I want to do. Once I get to the Brisbane area that will have to change a little bit though as I want to book some dive training and perhaps a sailing trip. Keeping to the budget is getting tough as I’d kill to be able to do some travelling that didn’t involve a bus and have a nice comfy room to myself at a hotel, even for a night or two. Thus far though, my only complaint about this hostel is that Creed appears to be one of the 6 albums on shuffle in the common room… ick.

AA: Newcastle Koala

Getting out of Sydney was a massive trial. My bus didn’t leave Sydney until six in the evening and by the time we were actually moving it was quite full. The time of course meant we were catching the tail end of rush hour traffic as we were trying to cross the harbour bridge and go north out of the city. The bus itself made this about 30 times worse as it had incredibly hard brakes and a terrible transmission. Any time the driver shifted gears there was a terrible noise and a thud as if we’d driven off a 5 foot ledge. Given my back was already sore things quickly got unpleasant. Thankfully Newcastle is only about 2.5 hours up the coast from Sydney and things got a bit better once we were on the motorway, but I really pity the poor people going all the way to Brisbane on that thing.

Unfortunately for me, the jackass driver really slammed my bag down putting it in and by the time I got to Newcastle my travel shampoo container had emptied and leaked all over my toiletries and parts of my bag. The scent of the shampoo is still lingering on me the next day. My roomies commented on how they thought they had a girl moving in. For extra entertainment value, I cleaned so much shampoo out of my shower kit that bubbles started streaming up through the bathroom floor grate. I’m sure everyone loved having to jump foam to get to the toilet later on. It also got all over my contact lens case and despite how careful I was to wash everything putting my eyes in this morning was an exercise in pain.

I was actually mixed up with my order of things earlier and my current hostel is in an old gentleman’s club here in Newcastle. Gentleman’s club of the port and cigars type, not the pole dancer variety. As a common room it has the old ballroom filled with wood panelling and leather club chairs, a pool table, foosball table and an old piano. It’s funny but for whatever reason this is kind of my image of a neat hostel: odd old building with character nestled near the beach and parks. The first night was mostly just getting in and sleeping, but before I even really had a chance to get up and around this morning I got a flock of new roomies on the train. One of whom definitely continues the wacky roommate roulette I’ve been having. He’s an 83 year old American ex-pat who’s been living in Australia for 40 years. He’s quite deaf and spends most of his time asking questions that he never quite seems to hear the answer to. He seems to be on a last tour of Australia before he goes home for a month to Perth. After that he’s relocating to the states to live with his daughter so she can give him extra care in the years ahead. It’s quite sad really, he clearly loves this country but you sort of get the feeling talking to him that this tour is mostly for show. He didn’t seem to leave the hostel today and he’s only spending a day or two here before going on to Brisbane and flying home. Judging by the fact that as I write this it’s 7:30 local and he’s already in bed I suspect he’s just not up to the demands of travelling rough anymore.

Weather definitely turned for the worse today though, strong showers on and off most of the morning but I kind of felt as if I’d get stuck indoors all day if I didn’t find something to do. One of the recommended things in my guidebook as well as on the activity board here was to check out the free Blackbutt Reserve (park) here. The hostel even has printed instructions on how to get there so I grabbed and map and set out. It’s a rainforest preserve, seemingly in the middle of a few of the small townships around here and just outside the main city of Newcastle. The trees were tall and gorgeous and once you got into the middle of the reserve you got no road noise either. It was very different for a Canadian boy to be suddenly deafened and look over and see a parrot, or to see a cacophonous flock of wild cockatoos flying across the path ahead of you. I ended up doing about 4kms of the various hiking paths before heading over to the wildlife refuge in time for the special events.

Walking around the outer exhibits there were emus and kangaroos, though the roos were mostly hiding from the still drizzling rain. I’m sure I’ll see lots as I get farther out into the country though. Following the path through the trees I got to see a large selection of Australian birds (from tiny finches up to parrots as well as the odd peacock.) There were also some very lazy wombats and a native aussie monitor lizard. Of course the highlight for me were the Koalas, I spent forever watching them in the trees, but at the appointed time (and for the steal of a price of $3.50) I got to get up close and cuddle two of them. They were so incredibly soft and fuzzy, very much like the teddy bears they so resemble. Definitely the highlight of the Aussie portion of the trip so far.

Tomorrow I’m signed up for a Hunter Valley wine tour and given the region produces some of my favourite Shiraz’s I’m sure I’ll love every second. The day after somewhat depends on whether I manage to finangle an RCI exchange from dad since that will likely determine how fast I have to go up the coast, but if it’s not raining I’ll probably stay here another day and explore the many beaches. It’s just a little dismal to be doing that given the current gloomy cloud and whatnot. Still, if the sun does break out the hostel has free boogie board rentals (and cheap surfboards, but I should probably take a lesson before trying that.)

AA: My Sydney digs…

I’m a few hours away from departing Sydney on a Greyhound up to Newcastle Beach and as I sit here in the Hostel Lounge finishing off my perishable food I feel compelled to write a bit of a summary of my interesting experiences at the Sydney Railway Square YHA.

As previously mentioned, it’s built into an old railway parcel shed at the central railway station and as such actually sits about 4 feet from some of the tracks of that station. I got one of the inner rooms and not one of the carriage rooms that sits on old tracks. I can’t say I’m too sad either after walking out there and seeing that these basically only have a thin glass privacy wall between them and the train yard. Numerous times while in the showers (where the vent windows open in a similar space) I’ve heard railway station announcements as clearly as if they were broadcast by the hostel PA. My favourite one has to be: “Attention: Sir, please remove yourself from the tracks… yes you, there is a train coming.”

I suspect the train/announcer noise issue is one of the reasons for the confusing surplus of people up and about stupidly early every morning here. The fact that this is a fairly high end and quite pleasant hostel, centrally located yet still cheap compared to any real hotel here in Sydney also makes for what seems like a much higher proportion of older guests. Many of these folks are of the advanced age where they’re up at 6:30 no matter what and are eating their early bird special dinners at 4pm. To these factors we can probably add that fact that the location of the hostel (and the other central YHA) offers a very fast and convenient airport transfer location which probably adds to the early morning traffic catching flights.

My roommates… The aforementioned twit who seemed to refuse to convert to Sydney time left the next day, but since then I’ve had a revolving door of weirdos. First up was the Aging Pirate, a 50 something Yorkshire man with a seemingly endless array of Jimmy Buffett-esque shirts, grizzled whiskers, and a very odd hat. This guy never seemed to leave the hostel for more than two hours. He kept a bottle of rum next to his bed whenever he was in the room but I never once saw him drink anything out of it. The most normal of my roomies was a Japanese kid who didn’t speak much English but was definitely the friendliest of the bunch. It was a little odd though as he brought up the nuclear crisis multiple times, each time speaking as if it was something I probably hadn’t heard about yet. Each time I assured him that I’d been following the news, both in New Zealand and here in Sydney and yes, wasn’t it terrible and scary etc etc… But sure enough, the next time he’d do the same thing. The guy that spent longest in the room was Czech and spoke basically zero English. We’d say hello and whatnot or talk about who should use the plug, but that was about it. He was also a person with a rather bizarre morning ritual that seemed to involve him getting up, opening his locker, taking out every bag, zipping and unzipping each one at least 5 times then putting everything back in his locker. He’d then disappear for a roughly 45 minute shower/toilet session before returning and doing the whole process in reverse. After the third morning of this I was getting pretty ready to post something online along the lines of “PACK ALL YOUR TOILETRIES IN ONE POCKET AND HAVE THEM WITH YOUR TOWEL ETC BEFORE BED” online and ask for a Czech translation. Then last night there’s a knock at the door and the front desk guy is there with a Sydney cop to talk to him. It seemed like it was a “maybe he witnessed something” type conversation, since they didn’t drag him away, and when he came back in he tried to explain but couldn’t figure out the words. At the very least it made the last night a little more exciting wondering if I’d be suddenly stabbed in my sleep.

Weird as my roommates were some of the other hostel residents were absolutely a cut above them. Case in point, the loud old Aussie who just ran through the common room here yelling out at full volume to multiple people he recognized. He’s a short somewhat shrivelled looking dude who could play the grizzled old prospector in any old western. With his backwards hat, age inappropriate sunglasses/shirt and mug that clearly contains something with more octane than coffee he’s quite a character. Still, I still have to stop myself from laughing as I imagine him yelling” GOLD GOLD GOLD!” each time he passes. Speaking of drunks, we also have two girls who are the spitting image of Courtney Love circa Kurt’s death including looks, fashion and hair. This impression was only reinforced when a Hole song came on the stereo and both of them sang along for long sections, I had to take a trip to the “restroom” to laugh when that happened since I was sitting at the same table. Though being in a bigger hostel like this tends to make it harder to meet people, it does make for some interesting people watching.

Probably my favourite thing that happened while I was here was the guy sitting out in the small pool area the other night who got locked out. Because this little pool is on a tiny deck overlooking the parking lot, the doors in and out are locked at 10pm sharp (as are most of the other alternative ways in and out of the building so that everyone has to file past reception to come in.) I’m not sure if the person locking the doors just didn’t notice this guy sitting in the corner with his laptop or if they just lock automatically but when he got up to leave at about 10:30, he couldn’t get back into the building. He looked so forelorn out there, but eventually hopped over the fence and managed to land without breaking his laptop, coming back in to the common area past reception to some applause.

Except for the plug issue this has overall been a good hostel and I’ve been reasonably impressed with the YHA brand in general so far. Hopefully this keeps up as I’m booked into another of their locations this evening. Tonight’s supposedly has bungalows not far from the beach, so here’s hoping it’s as nice as it sounds, unfortunately I had the option of taking a 7am(need to be up at 5) bus or the 6PM one I decided on (much nicer) which means I’ll be getting in quite late.

AA: Australia-Sydney Continued

I’ve spent the past couple days walking around and enjoying Sydney. I’ve checked out a few museums, including the Powerhouse Museum which for some reason had a travelling show on ABBA (not too sure how that fits in with their mandate but whatever.) Lots of other fun exhibits as well including a big section on steam power in Australia and a presentation of winners of local design innovation competitions. Would have been a lot better if people had made their children behave a little more mannerly though. I’m not a person who expects kids to be perfect, but christ there were a lot of enabling parents with spoiled crying brats there. Also, get off my dang lawn and such.

Along with my museum visits I’ve checked out some of the shopping, one of the more interesting places being Paddy’s Market. Kind of a strange place, a small city block or so of four levels of shopping mall, with the ground floor underneath opening up 3 days a week as what I’d have to call a bazaar. Stall after stall of random stuff, mostly asian gifts, cheap aussie souvenirs, clearly counterfeit clothing (including hockey jerseys for whatever reason) and big selections of things you’d see at flea markets. A large produce section sat in the back and all in all it really reminded me of one of the sheds at the market back in St. Jacobs outside waterloo, but times about 50.

Today was finally a quite sunny day when I looked outside in the morning so I hopped on the ferry to Manly beach to spend a day in the sun. Manly lies to the east of Sydney’s downtown, at the entrance to the harbour and the ferry ride was gorgeous. I managed to snag a seat on the bow deck and watched as the coast flew by. As we passed the heads where the Tasman Sea meets the harbour waters things got a little choppy but the ride was otherwise quite smooth. I could very easily spend my time here on a boat cruising around all day, it’s probably for the best that I don’t have enough for a sailboat left in my bank account or I’d be tempted.

Manly itself was gorgeous, a cute little suburb with some superb beachfront and lots of little cafes and bars. I walked along with the rest of the crowd from the ferry, checking out the offerings and talking myself out of a lemon tart at one of the bakeries. The long promenade crossed the lowest part of the isthmus that forms the north end of the harbour and at the other end was Manly Beach. The beach itself stretched quite far and was fairly busy for a Monday morning. The water was a beautiful greenie blue, but honestly for my money the beach back at Hahei was prettier, something about the island out there just seals it for me. It could also be the fact that I didn’t have the “things that can kill you in Australia” part of my travel book ringing in my head at Hahei. It’s not just sharks after all, there are poisonous jellyfish, octopi, snails and fish in Australia too.

It also had lots of people learning to surf as the wind was strong enough to create some medium breakers. I couldn’t think of a better place to lay down on the sand and spend my day. The surf lessons were entertaining as each person repeatedly fell with their board often snapping around on the foot cord to smack them in the ass as they struggled in the waves. Slowly but surely each of them managed to get riding the board, first on their stomachs, then slowly up onto their feet for at least a few seconds. After lunch and a swim I settled down for a few hours of reading and relaxing until the wind began to pick up and ominous clouds started blowing in from the direction of New Zealand (so that’s why the weather had been so nice there, they sent it here.) I high tailed it over to the ferry and got back to Sydney proper just as it started to pour.

Pouring rain when you have no car is kind of a drag, so I ended up heading to the movies instead of my original plan of hitting the aquarium. For everyone who buys the line that heavier enforcement of movie downloading (something Australia is apparently super Gestapo about) would let movies cost less, let me show you my $18 movie stub when I get home :p Also, for some bizarre reason, they still have assigned seating here for films, what the hell is that? I was assigned a seat next to some very weird woman eating an ice cream cone in a disturbing manner so I sat two seats over and hoped for the best, thankfully no one else appeared to be assigned to our row.

After the flick I came back here to the hostel to find that I’ve got another brand new arrival as a roommate so the lights were off early. Hopefully he actually adjusts unlike the last one. That kid seemed intent on sticking with some bizarre sleep pattern and not trying to move to local time at all. It appears the fourth bed will be empty again tonight though. It would be nice to get a roommate who actually spoke english and was social though, with the rec room full of tour type groups I could use a conversation that wasn’t a prelude to selling me something. As usual a day at the beach has pretty much sapped my energy so I think I’m going to post this and call it a night, pictures will follow at some point.

Antipodean Adventure: Australia!

Australia Day 0/1

I think at this point I’m going to give up on the day numbering since without an adventure tours brochure to check I’ll quickly forget (plus I already screwed it up anyway I believe.)

My last night in Auckland was rather bizarre. After a long long long drive from Wellington to Auckland, David and I checked into the YHA City but unfortunately we couldn’t get a room together. Despite only getting a 6-share (I wasn’t entirely sure I’d stay there but also wasn’t sure I’d be able to cancel in time so I went cheap as possible) I found myself upgraded again, this time to a real double. David ended up in a quad up nice and high. Niall was staying out in a hotel at the airport as he was leaving uber early and wanted a nice sleep for the limited hours he had, but for the meantime he left his bag in David’s room. I didn’t meet my roommate, but he had left pants neatly pressed and hanging as well as a lot of other tidy stuff so I joked with David that he must be German. (Kidding, I’ve met lots of nice normal German folks on this trip too)

We headed out to try to find a drink or two before we met the remaining ladies of the tour at a pub for dinner. The guys had spent more time with Auckland nightlife than I had, though given one of my two nights was me recovering from jetlag that doesn’t take much. We first went to a bar that had a rooftop garden patio that was really nice, but sadly reserved for a private function, so we left after a quick beer in the indoor portion. Walking uphill half a block we came across a few picnic tables in a narrow semi-alley filled with businesses. It was somewhat of an odd setup, the downhill curve of the alley meaning those tables must have had their legs precision cut to fit and stay where they were. In addition customers of both the pub we drank at and the little Korean noodle place next door seemed to use them. Eventually after eavesdropping I learned that the tables nominally belonged to the pub but that there was some sort of arrangement between the two businesses (I’m guessing they share the cost but they’re in the pub’s name because they’re licensed.) Makes sense for the pub, though they serve food there were also a fair number of people coming by for a noodle bowl, sitting at the tables then getting a beer when the waitress came by.

Dinner was in a pub that most of the AT gang had visited their night in Auckland before I joined the tour. Unfortunately it was fairly busy due to a trivia night so we ended up in the basement, but it was still a fun night of reminiscing and good natured grumbling over certain incidents. Things ended early though, after so long on the road and an early start we were all kind of ragged. Niall especially needed to get to bed since he wanted to be at the airport for 4ish in the morning.

 I went back to my room to find that my roomie had been back but was not currently there. I was actually pretty thankful as the two plug outlet for the room was situated right over his bed in the middle of the wall (whoever did the wiring for that place is a moron.) Sadly, just as my laptop and ds had been charging for about 4 minutes in walked my roommate wearing nothing but a towel. He turned out to be not German, but a 75ish year old Brit who immediately announced that he was getting up at 4am. I told him that was fine and he was good to turn out the light when he was ready (I was going to write on my laptop and play some peggle or something) but inwardly I was groaning, having wanted a solid uninterrupted night’s sleep on the (at least moderately) comfortable beds at the place. Things got even better when about 30 minutes later after he’d dozed off and was snoring he started muttering then almost shouting unintelligible nonsense. Super fun, though he was at least back to mere muttering by the time I tried to sleep an hour or so later.

I’ll give the old guy credit though, he very quickly packed and left after his alarm went off and but for the ridiculously loud slamming doors of the Auckland YHA City I’d have only really been awakened for a few minutes. All too soon after that it was time for me to get up and make my way to the airport. Thankfully the airport bus that I’d bought a round trip for on my arrival had a pickup spot just as close as the dropoff had been. Sadly it was down the el-steepo street from the pictures and with my heavy bag and day bag my knee was seriously pissed off at me by the time I was at the bus stop. I said my goodbyes to Auckland as we headed south to the airport, but I know I’ll be back.

It was a little strange to have to do customs both exiting the country and upon arriving in Australia, but the staff in NZ were actual human about things (the woman serving me was very cute too which helps) and the post-customs security people were also friendly and very efficient. Though I had no idea there was an airport of the year award, it doesn’t surprise me that Auckland has won it. The absolute kicker though was the apparently brand new safety video from Air New Zealand as seen below, keep an eye out for everyone’s favourite kiwi Amazing Race host as well.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3iaTEgoezNQ&playnext=1&list=PL211F31142DB54F44


Air New Zealand has taken over from old style British Airways as the best airline experience of my life. Obviously the destinations you can take them to from Canada are somewhat limited, but honestly, if it’s just another $50 to take them vs. United or whatnot you should absolutely take the plunge. Genuinely friendly service with a sense of humour, great in flight food and entertainment and (from my experience anyway) comfortable planes. Kind of like golden era WestJet but offering a full package service. Update at the end of the trip to see if they’ve kept that up on my subsequent two flights of course.

Sydney’s coast was rocking as we landed so I wasn’t surprised that my first impression on exiting the airport to central train was wind. On my friend David from the NZ trip’s recommendation I’d booked into the Sydney Railway Square YHA hostel which is conveniently right next to the station I’d gotten off at. It’s actually built into part of the old mail yard where parcels were once loaded into mail cars to take across the continent or down to ships heading out to the rest of the empire. Some of the hostel rooms are even in old train carriages, though I’m in the main building. It’s quite nice and almost brand new, though suffers from some of the usual WTF design decisions of hostels over here such as not enough wall plugs.  Absolute kudos to them for the heavy doors to the main hall that still close semi quietly, sadly our window that we really HAVE to keep open opens onto the platform for the railcar rooms so it’s kind of wasted.

After settling in and answering a few emails I went around and explored the local neighbourhood a bit before flopping into bed and just watching some videos. I’d been tired to begin with and I’d completely forgotten that I’d gone back 2 hours so I fought to stay up longer than I really should  have. My roommates were a young Japanese kid who’d arrived when I did more or less, an older guy who I think was in town for a wedding judging by the nice suit he had hanging in his locker and a third guy who didn’t show up until late and who I didn’t hear come in. He unfortunately made up for this by having a cellphone go off at full volume at about 4am, jackass. After that I couldn’t really get to sleep again fully as I kept waking up imagining that we’d overslept and were keeping the bus waiting. My brain is bizarre.

Today I continued my program of resting my quite possibly significantly damaged knee by walking around 18-20 kilometers down into the oldest part of Sydney, across the harbour bridge and around Kirribilli, then back and around the Opera House, into the botanical gardens etc…etc… I really am quite clever sometimes :p . Coming back to the hostel later on I’m fairly sure I looked like I had a prosthetic. Still, a ton of beautiful buildings, views of the harbour and opera house shots despite it being a cloudy, windy day. On the way back to the hostel I also picked up some groceries as now that the tour is over I have zero provided meals and I can’t afford to cafe it every day, especially in Sydney.

Walking around The Rocks was kind of neat, it’s an area that was the first rough and tumble ale and whores type district of the city and which has never really completely shed that rep apparently. According to the wiki page it’s partly gentrified, but still has a lot of low income residents in government housing and nighttime issues in some parts, somewhat amazing given the location and what the real estate must be worth. The side facing the Opera House and the Harbour Bridge is very gentrified with a ton of restaurants and shops as well as a museum and some boutique hotels. One would imagine this process will continue. Since it was Saturday there was actually a market on as well, so I picked up a cheap and delicious wrap from one of the vendors and found a great view of the Opera House to sit down and eat.

While walking about the Opera House, gardens and parks I seemed to run into “Everyone gets married in Sydney” day. No less than 10 couples taking photos, one actual wedding overlooking the harbour and a strange french couple recording video interviews with other tourists about how much people around the world are excited for their friend’s wedding back in Paris. While walking down to the waterfront earlier I’d heard a ton of church bells, I’m guessing most of these weddings probably occured nearby and I was seeing the aftermath. It was kind of funny to wonder how many wedding photos I’ll be in the back of though.

Once I returned with my groceries and pain I ended up spending this evening curled up in the lounge with my Australia travel guide, talking with people on occasion but mostly planning for future stuff and catching up on laundry. The exciting world of laundry on a Saturday night, is it any wonder I’m single. Most of the bars around here seem very clubbing/dancy though, and most of you know that it takes a loaded gun to get me to one of those in the first place, so going on my own is just not going to happen.

Tomorrow I’m planning to either hit Manly Beach or do some museums and markets depending on the weather. I still haven’t decided how long to spend in Sydney since I need to remember I’ll be here at the end of my trip too to catch my flight. If anyone who’s been here has any recommendations please shoot me an email or comment.

AA Day 20-21: All good things…

The following two posts are combined into one because I’m exhausted and running out of internet time.

I sit now in our alternative night stop in lieu of our Christchurch return. It’s a rafting lodge which is probably seeing the most offseason accommodations it ever has. I wish we had time to go rafting but sadly it’s a power-drive back to Wellington tomorrow, then to Auckland the next day. While I sit here I watch the reflection in the window of the doorway as the female half of our German couple checks  for at least the 5th time if her boyfriend is back in the room yet. The place has one hallway and she would have seen him if he’d come in, but no, there she is again lurking in the doorway.

Today started after a surprisingly sound sleep in our Royal Hotel, in my case I suspect simply because it was a solid pillow for once.  After a quick breakfast we’d boarded Princess and headed down to the Central Otago Rail Trail. Formerly a rail line bringing passengers into the area during the gold rush, the rails have been removed and the resulting well graded right of way turned into a massive mountain bike/horse/hiking trail through some gorgeous scenery. This morning we did a 33ish km chunk of it from near Naseby down to Hyde. We had sections passing livestock, little sheep faces and bored looking cows. (Fun fact: New Zealanders have 10 sheep for every 1 of them.)There are also a ton of deer farms in this area and it’s very odd to see a field full of deer placidly looking at the bus heading by instead of running in fright.

Our section of the trail ended at a really nice little cafe overlooking a vast expanse of rolling hills and farms. I’m quickly becoming repetitive with comparing NZ to Canada, but it’s true New Zealand seems to combine most of Canada’s scenery types into a nice compact package. In any case I was very much reminded of the foothills of the Rockies in places along the trail. It’s very much uniquely New Zealand as well though. Nikki and Naama actually got lost in the beginning as we all took off without realizing their bikes were still being adjusted, so by the time they arrived at Hyde we’d all had time to have a lovely lunch/snack, much better than yesterday’s atrocity.

The rest of the day was getting to the Rangitata Gorge rafting lodge via a few stops. We had a brief stop at a very large open pit gold mine, something most of the Europeans hadn’t seen before. Next we headed down to the Pacific coast and visited the Moeraki Boulders. These boulders are very smooth near spherical bubbles of rock that have fallen out of the muddy coast onto the beach and look as if they’ve washed in from sea. They have strange veins of quartz looking material that makes them look very alien to the landscape. Very neat though, and I couldn’t resist getting a few photos.

Naama Nikki and David enjoying the boulders

The lodge itself is nice enough, though we got here quite late and can’t really enjoy the scenery (especially with a 6:30AM departure on tap for tomorrow) so it will have to go on the list of places to come back to next trip here. Our rooms tonight have 9 beds but we’re sharing just the boys so it’s only 5 of us. This is a particularly good thing given that three of them are third level triple-decker bunks that have got to be close to 10 feet off the ground. This is our last real night on tour as half of us will be getting off at Christchurch (Andrea and Simone left today to go to Dunedin for a bit rather than sit around in CHCH waiting for their flight with little to do.) We’ll be dropping off five more I think and picking up 8 people who will be starting their south island tour, but we’ll only be sharing the bus with them as far as the ferry in Picton. Here’s Lisa again now, walking in as if it’s her room. I know they’re travelling together but go sit in the common areas together (and you know, talk to people) if you wanted to be together constantly you should have sucked it up and paid for a double upgrade. Of course if it was other people we wouldn’t care as much but frustration with them amongst the whole tour group is pretty high.

So a couple more days (and believe it or not a FIFTH driver) from now I’ll be heading out from New Zealand. I have to say that as great as this trip has been it’s done nothing more than whet my appetite for another visit. I think coming here with someone and sharing a camper van or something and hitting some of the spots I would have liked to have spent more time in would be great. Things like: More time in and around Auckland. Explore some of the rest of North Island, go back and do the Sea Kayak to Cathedral Cove when there isn’t a Tsunami warning. Do some diving once I’m certified and go snorkelling with the dolphins again (I could honestly do that every day.) It’s a beautiful incredibly welcoming country that has set a pretty high bar for Australia to match the rest of my trip. If I could suggest one thing to anyone coming here, don’t look at NZ all tiny next to Australia and think it deserves a 10th of the time. Everyone I’ve met has agreed that they’d wished they’d spent more time in New Zealand rather than just tagging it on at some tiny portion of a bigger trip. While I’m glad the tour is over (we’re all a little burnt out and need some downtime) I could easily spend more time here.

That said, I loved about 95% of this tour and most of what I didn’t was a result of the driver confusion caused by disorganization at head office about how many drivers were leaving since we’re sort of on the cusp of the end of the season. Our current guy is doing his best, but it’s his first time on Adventure Tours and they’ve given him pretty much zero help. Overall they’re great though, an older more mature crowd that likes to have a good time but isn’t up to 5am every night like Contiki. The groups are smaller. The real drivers are super knowledgeable(and Digger will get there soon if they keep him on here), point you in all the right directions and take you to spots you’d never find on your own or with one of the big buses. It has been a great overview of both islands on this one, but I’d recommend them even if you only have time for one island.

 The next day:

Sad day today as we sped from Rangitata to Picton. Along the way we made a couple stops in Christchurch dropping off roughly half of our remaining number. As I write this we’re sitting on the Picton to Wellington ferry which will arrive in the capital at around 9:30pm, making our time since leaving this morning roughly 15 hours… ouch. To make things worse, departure time tomorrow morning is 6:45am. Despite the length of the day we saw some nice sights and managed to persevere.

I felt bad as we all got up this morning for the 6:30AM departure. There were several other people staying in the lodge, but with the creaky old floors and 13 of us moving about grabbing showers and loading bags there was no way to stay quiet. I’m sure they’re bitching about the annoying tour group ruining their stay but we did the best we could. Low hanging fog over the narrow access road made the drive out a bit of an adventure as well as we ran across a fair amount of wildlife including a doe who was probably a farm escapee.

This time through Christchurch we got a much better view of some of the damage and would apparently have been within sight of the toppled cathedral tower in the city center. It reminded me a lot of photos from New Orleans. Obviously the scale of the damage is nowhere near as bad, but there is that same view of buildings with spraypaint codes denoting type of damage or just a simple NOGO. Old stone buildings were the hardest hit we saw (for the obvious reason) including a number of churches. One of them was obviously a beautiful old chapel in red brick, but most of the buttresses had given way and all the formerly stained glass arches were ragged holes. Many Victorian homes had obviously taken a long of damage as well. Some were missing walls, some had seen a collapsing porch draw off the entire front of the building. The nature of the earthquake means that damage in some areas appears kind of random, with newer buildings being condemned, but older places that look as if they’d fall down at the drop of a hat are open for business. There’s a definite hush about the city. The population has been diving since the quake and it shows. We passed a number of completely abandoned apartment and condo blocks, “For Sale” or “Not Reopening” signs were in many business windows and the traffic was nonexistent during rush hour. We passed the hospital visible in so many of the news stories and the number of cars parked everywhere nearby just sunk your heart. Temporary parking had clearly been set up in nearby areas and all of it was packed. At the same time, not far from the stricken city center there were people walking dogs and playing golf in the park, waving to passersby.

Leaving Christchurch we retraced the road we’d taken south from Kaikoura two weeks back. We didn’t see any dolphins from the road (our guide told us he’d seen orcas on one trip) but we did visit a colony of very cute seals. Even better, not far up the road there was a short walking path along a stream that the seal pups play in heading up to a waterfall. We were a bit disappointed to not find any seals in the pool, but on the way back down some happy barking alerted us to four juveniles playfighting in the stream. They’d found a small pool and were bouncing around in it. I really hope my video of it turns out well.

Since we had no way of making the 2PM ferry but the 6PM ferry didn’t require any kind of a rush we made a few stops like that, rounding up with another winery visit. This one was a much tastier one and even had a canuck behind the counter offering the tasting. They’re a fairly new winery and are striving to be zero carbon emission and the smallest ecological footprint possible. They’re also the largest single block vineyard in the southern hemisphere. I picked up a bottle that I’ll try to finish before Australia, otherwise it’ll be sealed up and I’ll hope for the best with it in my backpack.

In any case, it’s time to brave the on board food selection since we’ll be arriving too late for much to be open but it was too early to eat at the last food stop before the boat. Edit: food surprisingly ok, checked into hostel at 9:30PM sharp…

And thus ends the March portion of the travel blog, check my facebook page for some photo dumps  (I’m starting to get caught up) or check back here once I have cheap internet and I’ll post some once I’ve really tweaked them. Sydney beckons, then on up the gold coast. Only real firm thing on the agenda is visiting David from this tour in Brisbane and getting my PADI certification at some point.

Cheers for all the notes and things, I miss everyone.

AA Days 18-19: Doubtful!

The rest of our time in Queenstown passed in somewhat of a blur, we were trying to recharge our batteries a bit for the last run of the tour. The next stop was something I was most looking forward to, a cruise on the Doubtful Sound (really a Fjord) an absolutely remote natural wilderness. The tannin’s make a top layer of fresh water that filters light and keeps the salt water underneath extra dark. This lets a variety of deeper ocean species live on the fjord walls a few meters down.

Once we’d cruised off in the bus we eventually arrived at Lake Manapourri. Once on the lake you take a quick launch over into the western arm to a completely isolated road built for the construction of a hydro dam. This takes you across Wilmot Pass and down into the Fjordland national park. Doubtful Sound is the second biggest of the Fjords and can actually contain bigger species such as a resident pod of Bottlenose and the occasional whale of various species. (which we didn’t see) Lots of seals (which you’ll see in the pics) and some amazing scenery. There’s a ton of rain there annually so we lucked out in only having a few small patches of wetness.

We actually got to stay on the Fiordland Navigator on the sound overnight, down in steerage class basically. Unfortunately Niall wouldn’t increase our Titanic experience by leading any irish dancing. After getting all set up in our bunks we sailed down towards the Tasman Sea. The boat has its own Nature Guide narrating the trip and pointing out the various things we can see. Once we were down at a reasonably sheltered arm of the sound they broke out the small launches and sent off some parties then let the rest of us hop in the sea kayaks and have a paddle.

The Kayak trip was right up there with the one earlier in the trip for the amazing experiences of the trip. Towering cliffs covered with greenery with wisps of cloud running down the mountain, the only human sounds you heard once the big boat had stopped its engines was the splashing of paddles in the water. We could heard all sorts of bird calls ringing out through the rainforest over the backdrop of the waterfalls carrying away all the rain. Most of these waterfalls apparently stop within hours of the rain ending because there is very little soil for the water to filter through, it just slides off through the root farms and down the rock.

Once we were back on board the Navigator they served us a nice hot soup and set sail for the mouth of the Fjord and the seal colony on some of the barrier islands. Like most seals these ladies laze around all day before going out to hunt at night. There were a fair number of pups in amongst the moms but it was hard to see them given the rocking sea conditions. How far they go out really depends on sea conditions as this is a pretty wild sea coast. Our photographer is back with us as I write this and he says they made it five miles out earlier in the week and even the crew were bouncing around taking photos since that’s so rare. For us it was wild enough that they didn’t take us much farther as the sea sick types were starting to turn green.

Once we were back into calmer water they served a delicious dinner, total smorg (salmon, lamb, beef, chicken etc) that had everyone stuffed (even before desert.) There was a short nature lecture after dinner then some general lazyness until bedtime. We were anchored in a very sheltered cove for the night so there wasn’t much roll but surprisingly I still heard a couple people comment on movement in the morning.

The next morning we woke to the sounds of the engines starting at 6:30 and dragged ourselves out of our less than spacious bunks and up for the first (provided) hot breakfast of the trip.  We took another side trip into one of the arms on the way back up to the wharf. This was probably my favourite place of the whole fjord trip. They shut off the engines and let us drift at the end of the long narrow channel. Morning mists and clouds drifted around the tallest of the peaks and slowly crept down the cliffs towards the water. The entire scene was eerily beautiful and will no doubt linger with me the rest of my life.

The rest of the day was kind of a blur of travel as we travelled across the middle of the southern tip of the island and made a couple short stops in some tiny towns. We travelled briefly between the towns of Gore and Clinton on what has been dubbed the “presidential highway” then on to the town of Naseby. The entire drive was a study in how quickly the geography of New Zealand can change because in five hours we progressed from the fjordland inlets, across the lake, fields of rolling green farmland and orchards, up into more arid pastureland and then finally into our current formerly gold mining area with a few sheep farms. We also snagged a truly abysmal lunch that’s probably still sitting in my stomach radiating evil. Imagine a really shady Korean convenience store from downtown in a big city, then plop it down in the middle of nowhere and have that be your only source for a lunch stop. My choice was a pork sandwich that was beyond questionable, poor Niall ordered a chicken Panini then watched as they stuck it in the microwave instead of actually cooking it. Ungrilled Panini is far from pleasant, especially when it’s soggy from the Micro. They had a full kitchen as well since they offered burgers, but given how revolting the burgers looked for those who ordered them perhaps we should be happy.

Once in Naseby we checked in at the Royal Motel (not as advertised :p ) and went to the local curling rink which has somehow become a tourist attraction as we piled off the bus. I guess it helps them keep the place running as it has year round ice and that must get expensive at times in the summer here. I showed most of my bus mates how to do things and even had a strategy discussion later over dinner. Everyone seemed to enjoy it and it’s kind of fun to say I’ve curled in New Zealand. There isn’t much else here in Naseby so we settled down for a dinner and then a few beers, enjoying the massive rarity of free wifi until the owner turned it off, probably fed up that we weren’t going to bed. Unfortunately while I uploaded a bunch of older photos, I didn’t get this blog post up before it went down.

AA Day 16-17.5: Kiwi anyone?

Our trip to Queenstown was gorgeous yesterday morning. Because we’re a smaller bus we’re able to do some of the mountain passes that the big motorcoaches can’t. As a result we came down from the very top of the mountains down into the Gibson valley with a fantastic panorama laid out below us. We made a stop-off at the original home of the Bungy Jump and watched a few people take the jumps. Marco booked a big jump on the Nevis that he went and did later that afternoon. Andrea, Niall, Debbie and David all booked a fly cruise fly to the beautiful Milford sound area. I was incredibly tempted as the weather was beautiful, but it cost around $400 and that’s a good portion of a round trip to Fiji or Thailand if I want to do that later. They said it was gorgeous. I’ve heard the Doubtful Sound trip is as good though and that’s part of our tour (though we drive there) so I won’t be too regretful.

Once we got into Queenstown we settled into our quite nice accommodation then went to explore the town. It’s a very touristy little place, tons of people of every nationality. David pointed out that he wasn’t sure if he’d been served by a native Kiwi yet when we walked about this afternoon, I think he was right until we hit the supermarket.  We had a pretty questionable $3 bbq at a bar before moving to a different bar to close out the night. As part of the night’s activities there was a “horizontal bungy” where teams of two had to get drinks and chug them… bizarre. Overall the place reminds me a bit of Whistler or the Okanagan.

This morning we headed up the gondola and did 5 runs on the “luge” go-carty tracks. Very similar to the few that are out in the rockies if you’ve ever done one. Hilarious photo to come tomorrow. Great views of Queenstown and the lake from above. So far this afternoon we’ve headed over into the botanical gardens and seen their Frisbee golf course (sadly the rental place seemed to be closed) and checked out Fergburger, considered by some to be the burger in the world. I have to say it was pretty good, and any place I can get brie on my burger is pretty choice.

At the moment us boys are back in our room unwinding a bit before dinner. David and Niall are doing a canyon jet boating excursion tomorrow while I’m trying to decide between a few options. Unfortunately it may rain which will limit things.