After another terrible sleep at the Rainforest Retreat ended with a 5:30 AM crash from upstairs, I couldn’t help but hope that one of our noisy neighbours had met an untimely end. Sadly it was the other tour types getting up and ready to go. This was extra annoying this morning because we didn’t really have to be up until 8. Eventually we dragged ourselves out of bed, through a zero pressure shower and into another breakfast done in a half assed manner. Unimpressed.

Today was a bit of a stop and go travel day. We travelled barely half an hour before hit Fox Glacier and turned off to visit Matheson Lake. Matheson is known as a reflecting lake because the tree tannins in the water create and excellent reflecting effect. This one in particular is much loved because of the line of view that allows it to reflect Mts. Cook and Tasman, the highest mountains in NZ. We all took some beautiful pictures along the hike then hopped back on the bus.

Back to whining: For some ridiculous reason our current guide took us to the “shop” in Fox instead of telling us to go back to the Franz supermarket. While the Franz one wasn’t huge (think along the lines of the grocery store at one of the Whiteshell lakes), the Fox one was more along the lines of the food selection you’d see at a dingy gas station. David describes it as the selection of food you’d raid to donate to a food bank. I cannot disagree. We were a little annoyed, most people would have been happy with a sandwich but had to do more expensive options.

Our next (lunch) stop was at Knight’s point down on the coast, a beautiful overlook of what is apparently an oddly glassy Tasman Sea. Sandflies everywhere of course, but a great view for a lunch. Not long after we got back on the bus we stopped at Ship Creek, a small creek running into the ocean where a schooner once wrecked. Our driver stopped us here because he thought we’d be able to see dolphins, and sure enough skimming along remarkably close to the beach we’d occasionally see a family playing. Our last mini-stop of the day was at the Blue Pools, a 30 min hike down to a gorgeous river.

Tonight’s accommodation is far more pleasant. We’re in a tiny town called Makarora but we’re put up in nice little A-Frame Chalets. Things are starting to get a little chillier as we climb into the New Zealand southern Alps again. It was Karaoke night in the cafe here and the tour bus from Adventure Tours’ sister company is here too. They entertained themselves by picking songs for members of their group and “entertained” the whole bar. At least the beer was cheap…

Tomorrow it’s Queenstown and time to decide how I should get my adrenaline going.

Fantastic day today, made up for the shit time we had trying to sleep with our Contiki friends. They rolled off early this morning and in prepping woke us all up around 6. After a rather dismal provided breakfast overall enthusiasm for the day was low. This was not helped with the less than speedy service and continued grumpiness from the Franz Josef glacier staff at their starting area. Debbie is of the opinion (reinforced by later conversations) that it`s the end of the year and everyone is a bit punchy. Lord knows there`s not much else to do in this town as it`s quite tiny. Basically a few hotels and hostels, some cafes, one tiny grocery store and atm and that`s about it.

Thankfully our guide for our group was fantastic. Her name was Jess and once she found out we`d all done the Tongariro and were comfortable on the ice she took us through a few places that were fairly intense. Just getting to the bottom of the glacier is a couple kilometre hike and overall not taking into account the vertical it`s about 8km. The glacier itself is very pretty, quite different from my memories of Columbia Icefields. Once we reached the ice surface we strapped on our crampons and began to head up the ice surface, Jess leading the way. There is a ton of running water and a fair bit of surface melt so she was having to rechop footholds a good portion of the time. The guides had chosen today to break an entirely  new trail, which in some ways was amazing, but made for some doubling back. I also somehow ended up leading our group through a really narrow crevasse that had water running down the whole length. It was narrow to the point of needing to take off my backpack and lift myself through the tight parts and I was absolutely drenched by the end.

Overall it was a great climb-trek but my boots were absolutely soaked. Since they`re the only real pair of shoes I have here this may be a problem, but we have a long-ish bus trip to start the day tomorrow so hopefully they`ll dry. All us boys decided to spring for the hot pools add on and spent a lovely hour and a half soaking in the various giant hot tubs across the street. Much more laid back and relaxing than the theme park atmosphere in Hanmer Springs. We just got back from a nice cafe here in town, much better than last night and we`re basically mostly ready for bed already.

Sadly this morning was time to say goodbye to the comfy beds and actually pack my big bag again as we departed. Annoyingly some time between arriving back at my hut after brushing but before I took out my big bag my key disappeared and I was eventually forced to give up looking for it and pay them $10. Of course I found it later this afternoon, but may or may not be able to get my cash back as it likely depends on E.T.

Our morning routine was interrupted by the young german couple declaring that they’d forgotten something and forcing the bus to turn around 15 mins into our drive. Most of us scampered out to just wait on the side of the road and toss a rugby ball around, but it turned out we’d stopped in the middle of a half-marathon on a very nasty hilly course. After tossing the ball around a bit we stopped in our tracks as we heard the unmistakable drone of a bagpipe. Sure enough there was a piper playing everytime a runner came into view at the summit of this massive hill: Kiateriteri. Niall is of the opinion that it was to speed them on running away, but the pipes would certainly lift my spirits.

Once E.T. and Princess (the new bus) arrived we were on our way, picking up Marco, Evy and some lunch then on to another national park for a lunch stop. This was Nelson Lakes N.P. a beautiful spot that reminded me of Waterton or Lake Louise in many ways. As we sat on the shoreline eating our sandwich we were all accosted by a bunch of ducks and one large black swan that were so obviously tame that they’d practically climb on your shoes if they saw you eating. As if this wasn’t enough for yours truly, New Zealand honeybees apparently have a thing for Teal and blue and they would not leave me alone as I sat around in my Fish Tank shirt. One of the girls on the tour named Lisa was wearing a hoodie in a similar color and spent most of lunch running around flapping her arms. I finally escaped them by heading out onto the dock and watching the massive freshwater eels swimming around. They figure many of these things are absolutely ancient and blind and a large number of them live underneath the dock and boat ramp. At one point we counted around 30 at various areas around the dock.

The scenery this entire day was absolutely breathtaking. Strings of mountains lay on either side of the narrow roads, bubbling rivers and gaping canyons. One thing about New Zealand that can still give me heart attacks is the vast number of one-lane bridges, even on otherwise fairly normal seeming roads. Many of these are even hidden around blind corners so you really have to watch for the warning messages. I suppose our drivers know this route down pat but on occasion they can be really scary and I have to wonder what some of these supposedly mega-popular spots for locals are like in summer with the roads busier.

We stopped a bit later in the middle of Lewis pass as we approached Hanmer Springs and took a few shots. I should mention that we’re now travelling with a professional photographer who’s taking shots for both Lonely Planet and next year’s Adventure Tours brochure. Never know, there’s a small chance you may see me in the brochure next year. At this stop he got us to take a few action shots again tossing the Rugby Ball around in front of the bus.

Hanmer Springs itself is a very touristy town with a few streets of hotels, hostels and chic resorts interspersed with cafes and souvenir shops of various quality levels. It reminds me very much of Banff or West Yellowstone and apparently in the past was well known as a rehab clinic area. It’s now popular as a ski destination in winter, and in summer for various adventure sports (though if there’s a region in NZ that doesn’t have some form of daredevil pastime I haven’t seen it yet.) The main attraction for many is the eponymous springs which take the form of a fully developed hot pool park (as well as several waterslides.) Again think a much more built up Banff Hot Springs, or more accurately imagine if they expanded Radium. A few of us did the hot water slides, the best of which was a tube ride with the sort of toilet bowl approach swirling around and around and around. Quite fun and all the better for being warm. Mostly I just rested the old ankle though.

Our accommodations here are quite extraordinary, essentially ski chalets with a living area, several bedrooms and a tiny kitchen. Our guide even frankly admits that they make everywhere else we stay kind of look like crap. We’re actually up on the hill here and even without sitting out on the now chilly balcony I can look out across the lights of the valley scattered below. It’s very pretty and entirely relaxing.

As I write this it’s about 10:30pm local time and I’m not entirely sure when I’ll be posting this, probably tomorrow night. We’ve all come back from the pools and we’re kind of wiped, I’m not really sure how much later we’ll be up or for that matter which of the internet signals belongs to our accommodations here. I’d rather not be giving my credit card number to someone random though so this may wait for tomorrow. Apparently the “moon man” has predicted an earthquake for New Zealand tomorrow so hopefully it’s not near us if so.

Reasonably bright and early today, though nothing like yesterday’s ungodly hour. For the first time since joining the tour I wasn’t repacking my bag to get it on the bus come morning. Instead we all had a quick breakfast, packed our day packs and headed off for the Abel Tasman water taxi. As part of our tour we were given a one way trip by boat to a spot one bay into the park. On the way we went for a spin past a lonely rock called split apple rock, saw our first penguin (sadly I missed the picture chance) then tooled off down the coast past two offshore islands that are used as bird sanctuaries since the various invasive species don’t have access. On the shores of these islands were some very cute seals, though if you head farther down the coast there is apparently a full colony of them that one can swim with. It’s hard to describe the beauty, my camera doesn’t really do it justice in this light. I’m hoping David’s pictures will solve that problem once the trip is over and we all exchange things, but just imagine all the blues and greens up a few notches.

My abused feet were not happy with me as I began the initial climb, but once we’d reached the top the track was in fact quite level most of the way back, taking a gentle slope down to a beach at one point, but nothing that set off any cramps again. At one point we spent a few hours on a beach in Stillwell Cove and most of us even had a short nap laying in the hot sand. Can’t think of many better ways to spend a Friday afternoon than that.

Every few minutes along the entire path the trees would part and give us an amazing view of ocean, islands and mountains in the distance behind. When we weren’t distracted by the view we were being serenaded by unfamiliar birdcalls or the gurgle of small waterfalls and streams being fed by the previous day’s rain. Conveniently enough the path ended right next to the cafe from the night before and a few of us indulged in a pick me up, I snagged a berry smoothie that was marvellously rejuvenating. Unfortunately on returning to camp and taking my boot off my ankle absolutely seized up as I tried to walk to the shower in flip flops. I don’t think it was this hike that really did it, I think it was an injury from the volcano trek that I’d simply been walking through and today’s walk set it off for good. I’ll be resting it as much as possible the next few days to hopefully keep my options fully open for the big glacier next week. Still, it made the rest of the night really unpleasant walking wise.

Dinner was down at a local burger stand that E.T. insisted was the best he’d ever had. By the time we got there it was 7:30ish, and there were only a few picnic tables outside so seating was a challenge. Adding to the fun the crew decided to serve most but not all of our burgers at once so it took the better part of an hour and fifteen to get our food after most of us hadn’t eaten since 8km’s and 8 odd hours earlier. When they did arrive, the burgers were somewhat monumental. Most of us ordered one called the Hau which was a big patty and essentially an entire garden on top. I don’t understand the love for beets on beef down here, but I gave the pineapple and fried egg a try and it was quite good. Of course by now it was pitch black but for a few meagre candles so who knows what else was in there. Sad to say that after a walk back and a quick beer by the fire it was lights out.

The weather has been amazing so far on this trip. Mostly sun and clear skies punctuated by the long lazy white clouds that New Zealand does so well. Unfortunately this morning we got our first taste of rain for the trip as we awoke to a persistent drizzle. Adding to the fun was the ungodly hour of 5:45 as we got ready for a 6:45 departure. With the way these tours work, Ali Bar Bar was picking up a few people returning from the south island (as some of us will be in 2 weeks) at our hostel that morning as well. Despite the fact that they were joining an existing group they scattered themselves randomly over the bus. In particular one German (of course) woman had a bag in the seat next to her. When one of our crew asked if they could sit there she said “NO, my bag is there…” Luckily for her I didn’t hear her or I would have gone off on her. Eventually after I leaned over and said we’re going to need all the seats, the bus will be more than full she finally moved her ass over. You’d think she was prepping for an 8 hour ride when in fact it was a mere 15 minutes until 12 of us were offloaded at the ferry terminal. Logical extension of the beach towel syndrome I guess.

The rain let up as we got into the terminal (of course) and the skies stayed fairly clear for the crossing. The ship was reasonably big so there wasn’t much roll but a few of the team popped various seasickness tablets just in case. The ride itself is 2-2.5 hours of more or less open sea as you cross the Cook Straight, then an hour or so of sailing into the sound on the other side up to Picton. The shores of the sound are gorgeous, hills carpeted with trees rising steeply from blue green water. Here and there dwellings dot inlets and hilltops varying from megamansion to humble cottage, most clearly accessible only by boat.

Eventually we docked in the small town of Picton where we met Nick our new driver who told us to call him E.T (a nickname apparently bestowed upon him because he phones home a lot.) He was late to the party unfortunately and the rain began again as we sat there. Luckily it wasn’t too long and soon after we’d hit the bakery for some Kai (food) and hit the road. This area is actually New Zealand’s wine country and it wasn’t too long before we stopped off and sampled some NZ wine from Nautilus Vineyard. The area specializes in Sauvingon Blanc which is not my favourite, but I tried some very nice Pinot Noir. When push came to shove though I waited until later and bought a bottle of Aussie Shiraz for dinner.

This was a heavy travel day as we had to get to the Abel Tasman National Park that evening, but we still made a short stop for a swim at the Pelorus River (god it was cold) as well as a shopping stop for both Mussels in Havelock (the green lipped mussel capital of the world) and groceries in Mara. Some added excitement here as 3 of our number were doing some optional activities, Marco and Eva heading up to pilot a stuntplane and Patrick hang-gliding.

Unfortunately for Marco and Eva it was too windy and they were forced to postpone (though they ended up getting a sunrise flight instead on Saturday.) Patrick got to go up towed by a microlight and spent what sounds like a glorious time coming back down again over the many orchards and hop farms. While we watched him prepping a Royal New Zealand Air Force chopper came swinging in over the runway and landed as the Hang Glide operator told us they’d been flying over the rainforest, scanning for pot and sending men down to hack it all up. Sure enough, soon after landing the crew started coming out carrying big bundles of what very clearly was high power pot from the smell. What Marco and Eva didn’t get to see because they were off signing release forms was the small stunt plane land at full speed only a few seconds after the chopper cleared the runway, fighting the wind with his left wing down until the last second. The Hang Glide guy remarked drily “He’s not the most patient one.”

As we drove up the coast after picking them up we got a gorgeous rainbow crossing the sky, conveniently we weren’t far from a lookout so we managed to get out and take a shot or two. Once we got to the park we checked into our dwellings on the edge of the area, a place called the barn. Very much a farm converted into a hostel/campsite, all of our team were ensconced for two nights in very cute little huts with floor to ceiling windows in the front. The most important thing was that the beds were the comfiest we’d seen in a while. After a nice barbecue we headed down to the local waterfront (when the tide is in) cafe for a few St. Patty’s day drinks. A double Jameson’s later and I was ready for bed, but not before we all got to hear one of the bar staff do his “Park Cafe” rap.

I’ll be back online for a solid update soon, no internet until today and today’s is somewhat sketchy so I don’t want to give my CC #.

Agony, absolute agony as we rose at 7 today. Once we got moving things were surprisingly good though as our bodies lulled us into a false sense of security. The day was a moving day, getting those of us who are going to the south island down to Wellington via a series of small towns. This resulted in 5 hours of sitting and dozing for most, by the end of which we’d all seized up quite solidly and our final exit from the bus looked like a senior’s day trip to the shopping mall.

In our continuing collection of “Big Things” today we passed the big carrot, the big bull and the big gumboot in the home of the international gumboot throwing festival (really…) Wellington itself is pleasant, with some great views from the various hills. It’s also home to the national museum “Te Papa”, a really quite impressive (free) exhibition space with some features similar to the Auckland one (but bigger) and some other things. I got to make my own animated squid and set him free and should be able to follow his life online. One of the highlights of the museum was a temporary exhibit of one of NZ’s best known photographers, Brian Brake who took many renowned images for Life and other magazines in the 60s and 70s. Not much photo wise today though as Te Papa doesn’t allow photographs of exhibits. Tossing some of our rafting ones up at the end though.

After the museum David and I went building spotting until our feet felt as if they might give out, and we now sit sprawled on our beds in Nomads. Tonight is just going to be dinner, maybe a beer or two then a very early night as we have to be on the bus to the ferry port at 6:45AM. Next update will be from the South Island, no idea when though.

P.S. sorry about the picture Wackyness, I forgot this doesn’t resize automatically well, will try to fix that soon, if not the proper looking ones will be up on facebook eventually.

Kia Ora!

The biggest drop of the day (7m)

We went even deeper, but this is the last shot with any raft showing til we come up.

Our group: Nikki in the front there was absolutely terrified, the guide eventually basically tossed her in the water at a safe spot.