Reasonably bright and early today, though nothing like yesterday’s ungodly hour. For the first time since joining the tour I wasn’t repacking my bag to get it on the bus come morning. Instead we all had a quick breakfast, packed our day packs and headed off for the Abel Tasman water taxi. As part of our tour we were given a one way trip by boat to a spot one bay into the park. On the way we went for a spin past a lonely rock called split apple rock, saw our first penguin (sadly I missed the picture chance) then tooled off down the coast past two offshore islands that are used as bird sanctuaries since the various invasive species don’t have access. On the shores of these islands were some very cute seals, though if you head farther down the coast there is apparently a full colony of them that one can swim with. It’s hard to describe the beauty, my camera doesn’t really do it justice in this light. I’m hoping David’s pictures will solve that problem once the trip is over and we all exchange things, but just imagine all the blues and greens up a few notches.

My abused feet were not happy with me as I began the initial climb, but once we’d reached the top the track was in fact quite level most of the way back, taking a gentle slope down to a beach at one point, but nothing that set off any cramps again. At one point we spent a few hours on a beach in Stillwell Cove and most of us even had a short nap laying in the hot sand. Can’t think of many better ways to spend a Friday afternoon than that.

Every few minutes along the entire path the trees would part and give us an amazing view of ocean, islands and mountains in the distance behind. When we weren’t distracted by the view we were being serenaded by unfamiliar birdcalls or the gurgle of small waterfalls and streams being fed by the previous day’s rain. Conveniently enough the path ended right next to the cafe from the night before and a few of us indulged in a pick me up, I snagged a berry smoothie that was marvellously rejuvenating. Unfortunately on returning to camp and taking my boot off my ankle absolutely seized up as I tried to walk to the shower in flip flops. I don’t think it was this hike that really did it, I think it was an injury from the volcano trek that I’d simply been walking through and today’s walk set it off for good. I’ll be resting it as much as possible the next few days to hopefully keep my options fully open for the big glacier next week. Still, it made the rest of the night really unpleasant walking wise.

Dinner was down at a local burger stand that E.T. insisted was the best he’d ever had. By the time we got there it was 7:30ish, and there were only a few picnic tables outside so seating was a challenge. Adding to the fun the crew decided to serve most but not all of our burgers at once so it took the better part of an hour and fifteen to get our food after most of us hadn’t eaten since 8km’s and 8 odd hours earlier. When they did arrive, the burgers were somewhat monumental. Most of us ordered one called the Hau which was a big patty and essentially an entire garden on top. I don’t understand the love for beets on beef down here, but I gave the pineapple and fried egg a try and it was quite good. Of course by now it was pitch black but for a few meagre candles so who knows what else was in there. Sad to say that after a walk back and a quick beer by the fire it was lights out.

The weather has been amazing so far on this trip. Mostly sun and clear skies punctuated by the long lazy white clouds that New Zealand does so well. Unfortunately this morning we got our first taste of rain for the trip as we awoke to a persistent drizzle. Adding to the fun was the ungodly hour of 5:45 as we got ready for a 6:45 departure. With the way these tours work, Ali Bar Bar was picking up a few people returning from the south island (as some of us will be in 2 weeks) at our hostel that morning as well. Despite the fact that they were joining an existing group they scattered themselves randomly over the bus. In particular one German (of course) woman had a bag in the seat next to her. When one of our crew asked if they could sit there she said “NO, my bag is there…” Luckily for her I didn’t hear her or I would have gone off on her. Eventually after I leaned over and said we’re going to need all the seats, the bus will be more than full she finally moved her ass over. You’d think she was prepping for an 8 hour ride when in fact it was a mere 15 minutes until 12 of us were offloaded at the ferry terminal. Logical extension of the beach towel syndrome I guess.

The rain let up as we got into the terminal (of course) and the skies stayed fairly clear for the crossing. The ship was reasonably big so there wasn’t much roll but a few of the team popped various seasickness tablets just in case. The ride itself is 2-2.5 hours of more or less open sea as you cross the Cook Straight, then an hour or so of sailing into the sound on the other side up to Picton. The shores of the sound are gorgeous, hills carpeted with trees rising steeply from blue green water. Here and there dwellings dot inlets and hilltops varying from megamansion to humble cottage, most clearly accessible only by boat.

Eventually we docked in the small town of Picton where we met Nick our new driver who told us to call him E.T (a nickname apparently bestowed upon him because he phones home a lot.) He was late to the party unfortunately and the rain began again as we sat there. Luckily it wasn’t too long and soon after we’d hit the bakery for some Kai (food) and hit the road. This area is actually New Zealand’s wine country and it wasn’t too long before we stopped off and sampled some NZ wine from Nautilus Vineyard. The area specializes in Sauvingon Blanc which is not my favourite, but I tried some very nice Pinot Noir. When push came to shove though I waited until later and bought a bottle of Aussie Shiraz for dinner.

This was a heavy travel day as we had to get to the Abel Tasman National Park that evening, but we still made a short stop for a swim at the Pelorus River (god it was cold) as well as a shopping stop for both Mussels in Havelock (the green lipped mussel capital of the world) and groceries in Mara. Some added excitement here as 3 of our number were doing some optional activities, Marco and Eva heading up to pilot a stuntplane and Patrick hang-gliding.

Unfortunately for Marco and Eva it was too windy and they were forced to postpone (though they ended up getting a sunrise flight instead on Saturday.) Patrick got to go up towed by a microlight and spent what sounds like a glorious time coming back down again over the many orchards and hop farms. While we watched him prepping a Royal New Zealand Air Force chopper came swinging in over the runway and landed as the Hang Glide operator told us they’d been flying over the rainforest, scanning for pot and sending men down to hack it all up. Sure enough, soon after landing the crew started coming out carrying big bundles of what very clearly was high power pot from the smell. What Marco and Eva didn’t get to see because they were off signing release forms was the small stunt plane land at full speed only a few seconds after the chopper cleared the runway, fighting the wind with his left wing down until the last second. The Hang Glide guy remarked drily “He’s not the most patient one.”

As we drove up the coast after picking them up we got a gorgeous rainbow crossing the sky, conveniently we weren’t far from a lookout so we managed to get out and take a shot or two. Once we got to the park we checked into our dwellings on the edge of the area, a place called the barn. Very much a farm converted into a hostel/campsite, all of our team were ensconced for two nights in very cute little huts with floor to ceiling windows in the front. The most important thing was that the beds were the comfiest we’d seen in a while. After a nice barbecue we headed down to the local waterfront (when the tide is in) cafe for a few St. Patty’s day drinks. A double Jameson’s later and I was ready for bed, but not before we all got to hear one of the bar staff do his “Park Cafe” rap.

I’ll be back online for a solid update soon, no internet until today and today’s is somewhat sketchy so I don’t want to give my CC #.

Agony, absolute agony as we rose at 7 today. Once we got moving things were surprisingly good though as our bodies lulled us into a false sense of security. The day was a moving day, getting those of us who are going to the south island down to Wellington via a series of small towns. This resulted in 5 hours of sitting and dozing for most, by the end of which we’d all seized up quite solidly and our final exit from the bus looked like a senior’s day trip to the shopping mall.

In our continuing collection of “Big Things” today we passed the big carrot, the big bull and the big gumboot in the home of the international gumboot throwing festival (really…) Wellington itself is pleasant, with some great views from the various hills. It’s also home to the national museum “Te Papa”, a really quite impressive (free) exhibition space with some features similar to the Auckland one (but bigger) and some other things. I got to make my own animated squid and set him free and should be able to follow his life online. One of the highlights of the museum was a temporary exhibit of one of NZ’s best known photographers, Brian Brake who took many renowned images for Life and other magazines in the 60s and 70s. Not much photo wise today though as Te Papa doesn’t allow photographs of exhibits. Tossing some of our rafting ones up at the end though.

After the museum David and I went building spotting until our feet felt as if they might give out, and we now sit sprawled on our beds in Nomads. Tonight is just going to be dinner, maybe a beer or two then a very early night as we have to be on the bus to the ferry port at 6:45AM. Next update will be from the South Island, no idea when though.

P.S. sorry about the picture Wackyness, I forgot this doesn’t resize automatically well, will try to fix that soon, if not the proper looking ones will be up on facebook eventually.

Kia Ora!

The biggest drop of the day (7m)

We went even deeper, but this is the last shot with any raft showing til we come up.

Our group: Nikki in the front there was absolutely terrified, the guide eventually basically tossed her in the water at a safe spot.

Day 4:

Early start this morning, 6:30 wakeup to hit the road at 7:30 and back along the wild slide from side to side road. Today we were heading to Rotorua, a beautiful town nestled on the side of a volcanic cone lake. Along the way we passed a few sights such as a giant L&P bottle and some gorgeous hills and mountains. We passed the town that was the headquarters of the LOTR filming for Hobbiton, but did not take the tour out to the farm. You can definitely see a lot of the Fellowship scenes around here though, everywhere you look is a sweepy expanse of green or a mountain pass covered with roiling fog. Much like Queenstown in the south, Rotorua is an adventure sports capital. Upon arriving we were taken for a tour of some of these, including a bungee, swooper (like the thing at the Ex), a concrete luge and other options. Most of us already had something in mind.

Our actual activities for the day started in a Maori village build around a thermal area that was essentially a mini Yellowstone. It’s a real working village but they let visitors in from 8-5 to look around. Steam rises everywhere and that lovely yellow sulphur haze and smell spreads everywhere. The Maori here often cook food in steam ovens  connected to the vents. Our lunch was chicken, corned beef steamed in one of these ovens as well as some vegetables bagged in cheesecloth and dropped directly into a hot pool. The desert was the high point of the meal for me as they served steamed, brit style pudding with mango pears and cream. Everything ended with a great Maori dance show that was similar to the one I’d seen before, but with some new elements.

I’d been looking forward to the afternoon for quite a while though, a short but fun rafting trip with some killer drops including a 7m plunge (photos to come once we get them off the photo CD we bought.) In some ways it was a bit disappointing due to the short length, I’m certainly more used the 3 hour type trip. The drops made up for it intensity though, several of them being of the type where you have to PADDLE PADDLE PADDLE then throw yourselves down into the boat. As usual being a big guy who can paddle I was put up at the front and I’m fairly sure at the bottom of the 7m plunge I was a solid 10 feet underwater.

Group dinner at the Fat Dog cafe followed, tasty food in enormous portions. (as pictured below) Most of us are now so wrecked though that we’re lying near comatose in bed at 11pm here. Definitely no update tomorrow as we’re out in a national park campground, but I’ll be doing some whitewater Kayaking that will hopefully make up for the missed one.

Kia Ora everyone!

Apologies if the next two updates are rough, both were written while I was in quite a tired state.

Just after posting the last update I heard about the terrible quake in Japan and the subsequent tsunami warnings for NZ. Thankfully anything that got there wasn’t going to be an issue that far up the hills in Auckland so I slept pretty soundly..

The next morning I was joining up with my tour group and heading east into the Coromandel region. Made the fun mistake of almost getting on the wrong adventure tours bus, but eventually I was picked up by the bus heading in the right direction. To Chris and Jodi it turns out I do have your tour guide, great guy though misguided since he says you’re wonderful people.  I’m the only canuck on the tour and the rest are a fairly diverse mix, a couple aussies, several brits, several germans and a scattering of other euros.

We started out with a stop at Mt. Eden, a mostly (hopefully?) quiet volcano that was once home to a Maori fortified village or Pa. Climbing the road at high speed in a tour bus (though the adventure tour ones are tiny nimble ones) turned out to be training for later that day. Once at the top there were great views of Auckland in all directions and a path around the cone. The depths of the cone are a sacred Maori site so people are asked to stay out. We also heard about april 1 1985 where a group of students started a large tire fire then phoned in Volcano tips to local news outlets, causing a 1km radius to be evacuated at 6 in the morning.

On the way to Coromandel we passed through lots of rolling farmland covered in rich Volcanic soil. Every few kilometres there was a road information sign. Most were now saying, Tidal Surges or Tsunami Warning, stay off beaches. Our tour guide insisted that we’d completely miss the surge since we were supposed to be doing a sunset kayak. We had a quickie food stop where I picked up some delicious pear cider and some lunch. Lunch was by the side of a swimming hole well known by our guide, and nearly got the bus stuck between some trees and the bank. Two stoned old dudes came down not long after and showed us how  to place some bread in the water and lure some freshwater eels, very cool to see. Getting to the coast from there was an intense road, endless switchbacks and blind corners over sudden cliffs. Amazing, but I don’t even our driver.

Once we arrived at the town of Hahei, the plan of action for the afternoon was a quick swim, followed by a sea kayak expedition into Cathedral Cove. I’m told the bay we were swimming in was used for some of the shots in Voyage of the Dawntreader, I’ll have to go back and look but I can absolutely believe it. Beautiful blue green water, lots of islands keeping the waves manageable and some great body surfing. Unfortunately the government didn’t feel the same way, and just as we were about to depart on our Kayaks we found out that a warning for further surges was still in force. Despite knowing nothing would happen the operator had to say no and because the walk down the cliff had been washed out in a storm some months previously we didn’t get to see the cove. Sad, but saves me some money for other excursions. (Update: watch was apparently cancelled only 30 mins after had to give up waiting)

Instead since the tides were better, though behaving wackily we went down to the hot water beach. Another reminder that we’re all clambering around on top of a volcano that wants to kill us during what is clearly a seismically interesting season. Hot water bubbles up through patches of the sand and as your feet sink deeper they begin to burn. It’s a fascinating sensation, and many people dig their own hot tubs in the sand. Again Tsunami time messed things up for us though as the tide could not decide if it was going out or not and we couldn’t really dig tubs. Sinking into bubbling hot sand was still a blast, though if you waited too long you got some tingling feet.

Our meal that night was a giant barbecue prepared by Ali our guide, meat to order, potatoes and veg and ice cream for dessert. Absolutely delicious and served right next to my first really good view of the southern hemisphere stars. In fact the stars were shining so bright that we walked back down and along the beach enjoying the view over the pacific. My first view of the southern cross, great view of visible milky way and a gorgeous moon hanging above the bay to the north.